Setouchi
sewing machine concerto

of women sewing tabi
A journey to meet growth stories

Shikoku Fukuske Co., Ltd.

THE STORIES #004

Shikoku Fukuske Co., Ltd.

THE STORIES #004

01
get to know tabi

Deeper than you can imagine
Tabi making technology

Fukuske was founded in 1882 as a tabi clothing store. At the time, hand-sewing was the norm, but we developed machine-sewn technology for tabi. Each stitch to sew tabi socks is packed with advanced technology and history that cannot be imitated by others.

More complicated than it looks!

To sew or not to sew. For parts that require complicated sewing, we use our own special sewing machine.

The quality of fabric and stitching is top priority!

If there is even the slightest mistake or inadequacy, mercilessly redo it. No compromise is the basis of quality.

This roundness is craftsmanship!

The curve of the toe that comfortably wraps around the fingertips is one of the most advanced techniques in making tabi.

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Preparation before sewing is the key

01

color matching

We strictly check the condition and color of the purchased fabric one by one.

02

fabric pull

Layer the fabric while straightening it so that it is easy to cut.

03

Cutting

The pattern is applied in an exquisite arrangement that does not leave excess fabric, and it is cut at once.

Once you have all the parts, it’s time to sew!

through a number of processes
A pair of tabi is sewn

  • 01
    Through
  • 02
    back trowel
  • 03
    Hagi next
  • 04
    entanglement
  • 05
    presser foot
  • 06
    rush
  • 07
    rush
  • 08
    ground stitching
  • 09
    standing armor
  • 10
    side return
  • 11
    wind stop
  • 12
    round stop
  • 13
    Appetizer
  • 14
    Around
  • 15
    Entanglement
  • 16
    finish
  • 17
    iron
01

Through

Tabi parts are divided into five parts: the inner shell on the thumb side, the outer shell on the other four sides (each with a front and back), and the bottom. After cutting each part, the first thing to do in the sewing process is to thread the thread to hang the kohaze (fastener for the tabi). Fukuske's own special machine is used, and when you step on the pedal, the needle penetrates the fabric at once, and the thread is threaded. When the needle is pulled out, the thread is automatically cut, and it only takes a few seconds to thread two threads!

02

back trowel

The process of making a crease on the part where the goby is attached. You can set it in the machine and crease two sheets at the same time.

03

Hagi next

If the fabric used is thick, the overlapping parts of the fabric will become thicker, which may affect the comfort of the shoe. In that case, put a thin piece of dough on one part and make sure that the overall thickness is not too thick.

04

entanglement

Using a pattern sewing machine, firmly reinforce the area between the thumb and index finger (the part called the crotch).

05

presser foot

Sew a presser stitch so that the thread that was threaded in step 1 does not come off. If you sew all over the thread, you won't be able to hook the goby, so the point is to avoid the part where the thread is exposed by a few millimeters. Attention is the small "wing" attached to the presser part of the sewing machine. This feather pushes the threads well and sews only the appropriate parts. However, the most amazing thing is the craftsmanship that manipulates it! A sewing machine that runs at high speed is controlled with a subtle amount of force.

06

rush

There are several types of kohaze, and the order of the kohaze used differs depending on the breed of tabi. In some cases, the size and type of fabric are written on it, and it actually functions like a quality display tag. The process of quickly identifying such goby and arranging them correctly according to the breed, size, and right and left direction of the tabi is the process. If you make a mistake in the order of even one, you will have to start over. It is different from just arranging, and instant judgment is required.

07

rush

If the material is stretchy or stretchy, it won't be firmly fixed even if you attach the goby as usual, and it will pop up. In order to hold it down, sew the presser stitch again from the top.

08

ground stitching

Jisugi is the process of sewing together the outer and lining fabrics of the tabi. The four toe side of the instep is sewn inside out, and the thumb side of the instep is sewn inside out and then turned inside out (jigaeshi). After setting the thumb side fabric in the four finger side fabric, proceed to the next step.

09

standing armor

Sew together the front and back 4 pieces of fabric set in step 8 at once at the instep. It is the part that you can see from the front when you put it on, so the beauty of the seams is important. It is also the part where the most force is applied when wearing it, so strength is also necessary. The sewing machine used here has been remodeled so that when the switch is pressed with the knee, the stitches become smaller. Press the switch when you reach the point where you want to add strength, and sew tightly and finely. The craftsmanship that achieves a certain curve and strength shines.

10

side return

When the thumb side fabric and the four finger side are sewn together, turn the fabric inside out.

11

wind stop

When you put on the tabi and put it on, the fabric on the side of the seam hanging thread will be stretched if it is made of stretchy material.

12

round stop

After stitching together the thumb side and the four toe side of the instep with a standing instep, before attaching the sole, make a ring shape and sew the overlapping part of the heel together in a circle. At that time, carefully check the small notch mark called "Giza" attached to the fabric and sew it in the correct position. If this is misaligned, it will cause excess or shortage of dough in the subsequent process of attaching the bottom.

13

Appetizer

An important process to realize the beauty and ease of wearing of Fukuske tabi is the process of creating the exquisite swelling of the toes. While making exquisite gathers according to the curve, the fabric is adjusted and sewn so that it fits perfectly. With both a special sewing machine and skilled skills, the bulging and beautiful curves are completed for the first time. It takes time and effort, so the number of people involved is the largest, and we spend time teaching young people for the purpose of inheriting the tradition.

14

Around

After finishing up to the tip, sew the bottom and integrate all the parts. It doesn't matter if you run out of dough or have some left over. While looking at the condition of each tabi, he instantly decides whether to pull the fabric slightly or to sew it with a slight push, and sews together while making exquisite adjustments.

15

Entanglement

It wraps around the bottom to reinforce it so it doesn't fray.

16

finish

The sewn socks are turned inside out, so use a wooden stick to turn them inside out. The snap of the neck and the beautiful return to the toes are truly craftsmanship! After that, the tabi is tightly sandwiched between Fukuske's unique wooden molds. In the past, finishing was hard work done by hitting with a wooden mallet. The Fukuske style, where women do the finishing process, surprises other companies.

17

iron

After finishing, check the stitching and seam alignment once, and after confirming that there are no problems, proceed to the final ironing process. It is sandwiched in a special press machine that matches the shape of the tabi, and the wrinkles of the tabi that have gone through 16 processes are smoothed out. Once this is done, the bag is carefully put into a bag by hand, passed through a needle detector, and ready for shipment! Japan's top quality tabi will be delivered to us.

/
PLAY
Takumi's process edition5 minutes 3 seconds
02
working people

be sewn together
Women's growth story

Four women working at Shikoku Fukuske. What is their growth through making tabi?

Once you decide
It's early!

Mr. Umemoto

feeling to challenge
Was born

Miki

while being supported
to the leader

Mr. Doi

than anyone else
I was competitive

Mr. Shirakawa

Since I decided towork locally

Umemoto's story

I'm quick to decide on anything.

It was the same when I decided to work at Fukusuke.
When I saw people in the factory silently concentrating on sewing machines, I immediately told my high school teacher that I would work here.

I honestly didn't know anything about Fukusuke.
When I talked to my grandpa at home, he said, "Oh, I know," and it was a big company.
I even wore tabi at festivals when I was little.

Actually, I always wanted to get a job in Osaka.

I didn't have a specific dream, but I felt like if I could get out of Kagawa and meet new things, I would find something.

However, the job hunting has become difficult due to Corona.

So I went to Fukusuke, who was recommended by my teacher.
For someone like me, who is not good at talking to people, Fukusuke's work is ideal.
In high school, I was in the clothing department, so I had confidence in sewing machines.

However, the sewing machine for work was completely different.

How far should I step in, the speed adjustment is not going well.
I passed through the places where I couldn't stop, and sewed the places where I couldn't stop.

Then one day, my senior told me, ``It's easier to adjust by raising your heel rather than stepping on it.''

I didn't ask for advice myself, but I think he was probably watching me all the time.

There is a great sense of security that you are being watched over.
Not just Fukusuke, but the whole town.
I know most of the people at Kanonji.

So now, I'm glad I chose the local Fukusuke.

Even my friends tell me that it's a good place.
Everyone didn't know about Fukusuke, but when I showed off the tabi with my name on it that I wore at the Coming-of-Age Ceremony, they said, "Wow, this is sewn!"

Fukusuke's tradition is to sew his own tabi for the coming-of-age ceremony.
I take measurements, decide the color of the name embroidery, and when it comes to the process I'm in charge of, I'm handed over, saying, 'This is my job.'
I was happy.

My goal now is to be able to sew a lot.
The people around me are really fast, and when I hear the sound of the sewing machine, I want to be like that too.

I'm sure the numbers will go up.
It's too early for me to decide.

01
02
03
04
05

Lifeas it is said is over

Miki's story

Ever since I was little, I didn't have a "dream for the future" in particular, and my life progressed as I was told.
I joined Fukusuke because my high school teacher recommended it.
I wasn't good at sewing (laughs).

I like doing things by myself, so the job itself suited me.
But at first, I couldn't sew well at all.

Sew and untie with a practice sewing machine next to the line, sew and untie, and repeat.
Honestly, it broke my heart.

It was a friend of the same period who came to the rescue.
Encourage each other on the way home every day, and relax together on holidays.

She was in charge of the next process after the one I was in charge of, so I thought, "I'm really sorry if something went wrong," and I trusted her to connect the socks.

By the way, I am in charge of the process of sewing the toe part called "Sakitsuke".
It is particularly difficult to make tabi, and it takes three years to become a full-fledged person.
In order to preserve the tradition, I take time to teach young people properly.

It wasn't until I started sewing stretch fabrics that I became confident.

When I was using calico (cotton fabric), I wasn't sure if I was sewing well, and it took too long to check the finished product.
However, it works surprisingly well with stretch fabrics, and I can now sew without worrying too much.

9th year since joining the company. I still can't say I'm good at it, but I've found my own tricks and I'm passing them on to my juniors.

Recently, I can clearly feel that I have a "challenging spirit" that I didn't have before.
This is the influence of my husband who got married last year.

It was a long-distance relationship, but my husband decided to come to Kagawa in response to my desire to continue working as Fukusuke.

I was inspired by his flexible way of thinking, and because of the responsibility and gratitude I felt for coming to Kagawa, I decided to work harder than ever before.

I want to be useful to everyone by increasing the number of stitches I can sew, and I want to be able to use my time wisely by doing my work and housework more efficiently.

I began to think about not only Fukusuke's work, but also his future life.

With the support of my colleagues and husband, I will continue to take on challenges in my own way.

01
02
03
04
05

always have my friend

Mr. Doi's story

"If anything happens, I'll help you."

That's what the manager said to me, and I decided to become a leader.
It was two years ago, ten years after I joined the company.

Captain of the basketball team in high school.
But I didn't think I had the leadership, just because there was no one else to do it.

I didn't even imagine being a leader at work, and all I had was anxiety.

I am the leader of the first part of tabi making, called the "head process."

The leader's job is to think about the next day's arrangements and take over vacancies while doing the work of the process in charge.

All my team members are older than me.
There are many technically advanced people, and sometimes they are severely pointed out.
So all the more, I was feeling the pressure.

Even so, when I was worried or had to deal with it by myself, the manager would always ask me, "Did something happen?"

Just remembering it brings tears to my eyes.
It's not like I've ever had a hard time, but... I mean, he's watching over me, and he's always on my side.

Because I had a section chief, I thought I would do my best.
A goal I respect.

I am a leader at Fukusuke, and I am also a mother of four when I leave the company.
I took maternity leave and childcare leave four times.

Every day, I feed the children breakfast, send them to nursery school, pick them up after work, have dinner, and put them to bed.

What keeps us going these days?
Is it the smile of a child?
He doesn't listen to me at all (laughs).

I haven't talked to my kids about work yet, but I'd like to talk to them about making tabi someday.

Fukusuke also has tabi for children, so I sew while thinking, "It's cute. It's about the size of my child."

There was a time when I wanted to quit here and concentrate on raising my children, but now that I am a leader, that is irresponsible.
Just like the section chief found me, this time I want to find someone who will become the next leader.

01
02
03
04
05

Turn regrets and gratitudeinto confidence

Shirakawa's story

I gave birth to a child when I was 16.
Fukusuke was the only one to become a full-time employee, although he worked as a cashier at several supermarkets.
I was surprised at the difference in the amount of bonus I received in my first year as a part-time worker compared to a full-time employee.

The manager said,
"I'll give you a chance. It's up to you to make it happen."

Once you become a full-time employee, the sewing process becomes more difficult.
When I was in elementary school, I was so clumsy that I couldn't even sew a dust cloth, but I immediately answered, "I can."

Anyway, I hate to lose.

During my trial period as a full-time employee, I was assigned to the important process of stitching together the upper part of the body called the "standing armor".
When I saw the work of the veterans, I was astonished, thinking, "Wow! There's a wizard!"

Among the veterans, there was one person who was particularly amazing.
I thought that I would definitely beat this person, so I became a rival in my heart.

After that, I practiced hard every day.
It was really difficult to sew four pieces of cloth together without any gaps. When I went to a coffee shop, I would put four towels on top of each other.

My manager at the time was very helpful.
She asked me, "Why don't you try this?" and "Let's fix it together."
It is thanks to this person that I became able to sew the standing armor.

Sewing 700 pairs in a day is enough for a job.
But still for me.
Not even 800. Finally satisfied with 900. When I got over 1000 pairs, I finally thought, "Okay, I won!"

After that, I experienced other processes and mastered most of the work.
Among them, I have more confidence than anyone else when it comes to standing armor.

Now, I am the first female manager of the factory.
I couldn't believe it when I became a leader, but a year later I became an assistant manager, and before I knew it, I was a section chief.

Not at all!
I'm always lamenting to the manager, "I'm going to sew 1000 pairs every day, so please let me stop being the section manager."

But since I'm in a position to bring everyone together, I can't help but worry about people other than myself.
In the past, I was only thinking about increasing my number.

When I see someone whose arms are not up in the morning radio exercises, even though I think they are meddling, I ask them, "Are you feeling a little better?"
There are many young children who cannot speak for themselves.

I want everyone to enjoy working.
If you're going to do the same job anyway, shouldn't it be fun?
My co-workers still tell me that.
"I really enjoy sewing," he said.

Maybe you have confidence.
I think it's because I was able to overcome all the hardships of not being able to sew and the pain of failure and make it my own.

01
02
03
04
05

changing times and
Making unchanging tabi

The three people who run the Shikoku Fukusuke factory will talk about passing on the tradition of making tabi socks and training young workers.

There is meaning in not changing

Baba

Fukusuke's tabi making is faithful to the basics. Where to hold the fabric, where to put it, how to sew. They are all determined to make good tabi, and the same teaching method has been passed down for decades.

Hamada

They are also very strict about quality. The number of suppliers that meet Fukusuke's quality standards is limited, and there are only a few, including companies that have been doing business with Fukusuke for over 100 years. It is said that "if it works for Fukusuke, it works for others."

Kitano

The factory and the people are very neat. Before I became a permanent resident at Kanonji, I worked in Tokyo. It's not dusty at all for working with textiles. It may be that the company culture that is faithful to basics and quality is reflected.

Baba

Having worked at the Shikoku Factory for more than 30 years, I took it for granted, but almost everyone who visits the factory is impressed by how our tabi are made. It wasn't until someone told me about it that I realized for the first time how amazing the unchanging craftsmanship is.

Even so, the times are changing

Hamada

Fukusuke went through civil rehabilitation in 2003. Amidst the chaos at the head office, I was suddenly asked to go to the Shikoku factory, even though I had never been directly involved in tabi manufacturing. Since this is a manufacturing site, the impact was relatively small, but even so, we needed to make changes as a factory, such as being required to further improve efficiency.

Baba

Nonetheless, we had already established a sophisticated production process with no waste, so we didn't change the way we made it. Other parts changed. But mentally, I felt uneasy about the employees. Kanonji is a large company with a long history of familiarity, but at that time, I think everyone had the awareness that it was not natural for them to continue.

It's not a job that anyone can do

Hamada

I mentioned that Fukusuke's tabi making is faithful to the basics, but that doesn't mean that anyone can do it. Above all, you need concentration and compatibility. In some cases, a new employee who is not good at speaking to the point of worrying as a member of society has grown to the point of surpassing the veteran in just a few months.

Baba

Depending on the process, there are suitability and unsuitability, and there are many cases where if a person who does not progress easily is transferred to another process, their progress suddenly progresses. On the other hand, there are all-rounders who can skillfully handle any process. We believe that it is our role to find a process that suits each person while carefully observing the performance of each person.

Kitano

A few years ago, the baby boomer generation retired at once, and the age group has dropped a lot. I think it's the same for all companies that hiring young people is getting harder year by year, but Fukusuke takes pride in supporting the kimono culture. I would like to create a mechanism that can appeal to a wider range of people with our pride and our history.

01
02
03
PLAY
Growth story edition1 minute 35 seconds
03
Kannonji Temple has a lot of charm

There are many other attractions!

If you go to Shikoku Fukusuke
Please visit and feel it!
Kannonji Temple and Surrounding Area of charm

sightseeing
map

PLAY
Sightseeing around Kanonji City, Kagawa Prefecture3 minutes 14 seconds
Fukusuke

Street snap @ Kagawa Prefecture

people in guesthouse

Awashima

boat taxi driver

Awashima

Udon shop people

Kanonji City

Owner of dried sardine ramen

Kanonji City

bucket workers

Takamatsu City

traditional craftsman

Takamatsu City

Mikan and lemon farmers

Kanonji City

Bonsai masters

Takamatsu City

A man who greeted me in the rice field in front of the factory

Kanonji City

Women making tabi socks in Shikoku Fukusuke

Kanonji City
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The Toyotsu Group should be proud
There are traditional techniques andcraftsmanship.

Shikoku Fukusuke has been supporting Fukusuke's and Japan's traditions for decades.

Even when we were forced to shorten working hours due to the effects of the new coronavirus, we always kept the factory running for a few hours a day and never stopped the work of the craftsmen. This is to ensure that the traditional skills that have been handed down will not be dulled even for a moment.

We hope that what we have measures for reinforcing our business foundation here will serve as a bond between people and between companies, and become a source of inspiration and inspiration for creating something new.

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